A day away from Seville: Beautiful Ronda

Tags

Andalusia, Church of Santa Maria de la Encarnacion, La Casa del Rey Moro, Palacio de Mondragon, pueblo blanco, puente nuevo, Ronda, Spain, white hill town

We decided to use our last day in Spain to adventure away from Seville and see the most famous of the Spanish white hill towns, Ronda.

There were a few more sights in Seville but Sherrie and I always prefer the character and charm of small towns.   Several friends and family recommended the town and we were not disappointed.

We didn’t plan this visit and as such relied on a single map of the old town in a guide-book. We just set the town into the sat nav and we were off!

After an hour and a half drive we arrived and found a great (and inexpensive car park) in the center of the newer town. The town is separated into two, the historic town center and the newer district, by the famous Puente Nuevo (new bridge) built in the 18th century (yup, really new…).

Puente Nuevo, “New Bridge,” in Ronda looking towards the historic side

After spending some time marveling at the bridge and the gorge it crosses, we walked over to the historic town center.  Funny thing, we met an Australian couple on the bridge we had previously met in Seville – and who were heading to Granada afterwards.  Quite funny to see the same couple in a few different places around Spain.

The historic town is not very large but we only had four hours and so we followed a walking tour recommended in our DK Eyewitness book to make sure we covered all the sights.  It was a nice tour.

Our first stop was La Casa del Rey Moro (“The house of the Moorish king” – although it was never the house of a king) where there exists an old water mine which travels down the gorge to the river.  It was an important feature which allowed access to water during the frequent sieges by either Christian or Moorish troops.  It is 365 steps down….and 365 steps back up 🙂

The trip was worth it.  The ravine was cool, the river was beautiful, and we watched the swallows flying through the canyon to their nests.

Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella traveling down the water mine at La Casa del Rey Moro

Inside the water mine of La Casa del Rey Moro

Lucas at the river in Ronda at the bottom of the water mine beneath La Casa del Rey Moro

The river in Ronda at the bottom of the water mine beneath La Casa del Rey Moro

Isabella resting in the canyon at the river in Ronda. Surprisingly, she was not posing for the camera.

Sherrie, Aurelia, Lucas, and Isabella at the river in Ronda beneath La Casa del Rey Moro

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas at the entrance about to go back up the water mine beneath La Casa del Moro in Ronda

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas resting in the garden after coming back up the 365 steps of the water mine from the river beneath La Casa del Moro in Ronda

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas pose in the gardens of La Casa del Rey Moro in Ronda

After our stop at the water mine we continued our walking tour which led us past an old minaret and some very picturesque parts of Ronda.

Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella walking through Ronda

Isabella, Aurelia, Lucas, and Sherrie walking through Ronda

Buildings in Ronda – traditionally whitewashed

After walking through the town we found a nice plaza with a lot of tree cover in front of the Church of Santa Maria de la Encarnacion.

Church of Santa Maria de la Encarnacion, La Mayor

We stopped in the plaza for a rest and then continued to the Palacio de Mondragon which is not too far.  On our way we got in trouble with a lady for trying to pick an orange from a tree 🙂  The oranges grown in the cities of Spain are beautiful but not  very good but are rather used to make British marmalade.  However, we still wanted to try one.  Oh well.

We then visited the Palacio de Mondragon and the municipal museum that it encloses.  The museum was very well done and told the entire history of Ronda including the prehistory of the area through the Roman occupation and Moorish settlement.  We enjoyed the museum.  It is also located in a beautiful building.

Exterior of the Palacio de Mondragon in Ronda

Inner courtyard of the Palacio de Mondragon

After the museum we went back to the plaza for dinner and enjoyed a really nice time.  The kids also got to run around a bit and play with some other children who were just out of school.  During our meal a gentleman with a horse rode up to the restaurant for a drink and gave Lucas and Isabella a ride around the plaza.  We had a very nice time drinking beer, eating tapas, and attempting to communicate with the others around us 🙂

Isabella, Aurelia, Lucas, and Isabella sitting down for dinner in Ronda

Lucas, Aurelia, and Isabella make friends and play in the plaza – although neither groups spoke the other’s language they had a great time

Tomatoes and shrimp tapas

Chorizo and bruschetta with cheese and honey tapas

Lucas riding around the plaza in Ronda

Isabella riding around a plaza in Ronda

We had a great day in Ronda and wish we had a bit more time there, but maybe we’ll be back someday!

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Seville Cathedral, Bullring, and Flamenco!

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Andalusia, bullring, cathedral, Christopher Colombus, flamenco, Giralda, Seville, Spain

This morning started off warm and got warmer in Seville.  We went straight to the cathedral after missing it yesterday. 

However, on our way we stopped to buy a fan for Sherrie.

Fans laid out from which too choose

Sherrie and the kids at the fan shop

The best part of the cathedral was walking up the minaret – now bell tower – the Giralda tower.  The walk up over a thousand feet was easier because the interior is a ramp rather than steps to facilitate a horse and rider.

Sherrie and the kids going up the tower

Seville from the Giralda tower

Sergio, Lucas, and Aurelia at the top of the Giralda tower

Sherrie and the kids at the top of the Giralda tower

Isabella in the Giralda tower

The second best part if the cathedral was the grave of Christopher Colombus.

Isabella and Lucas at the grave of Christopher Colombus in the Seville cathedral

Grave of Christopher Colombus in the Seville cathedral

Cathedral rooftop and original mosque plaza below

Isabella and Lucas never miss a chance to play in the water

Lucas and Isabella in the mosque plaza in front of the original entrance

The original mosque entrance at the Seville cathedral

Giralda tower

We then had tapas for lunch which included bacon wrapped shrimp, which were wonderful.  After that we stopped in a nearby Starbucks, of which they are many, for frappuccino and cookies.

Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia enjoying cookies in Starbucks

We then decided to go to the bullring since that would be cool and take a scenic route along the river and post the golden tower.

Sherrie and the kids at the golden tower. Aurelia is asleep on Sherrie's back.

Golden tower protecting the river and port of Seville

The bullring and museum were fascination and rate as one of our favourite activities – although I don’t feel I’ve read enough Hemingway to appreciate it.

The whole family at the Seville bullring

Lucas and Isabella at the bullring

The Seville bullring

Inside the bull fighting museum

The bull fighters chapel

The bull fighters alter

After leaving the bullring we were approached by someone selling flamenco tickets. Since it was on our list we decided to do it, but the show started in one hour so we had to get to the show and stopped for a slice of pizza.

The flamenco show was at the school of flamenco I’m the Barrio Santa Cruz, the historic Jewish district. This also gave us a chance to see one of the more beautiful neighbourhoods in Seville.

Buildings in Seville barrio Santa Cruz

Street in Seville barrio Santa Cruz

We also walked through the El Arenal district.

Seville El Arenal street

The flamenco show was very nice and luckily for the kids, and our sanity, only lasted one hour.  But, it was awesome with great dancing, guitar, and singing.

Seville school of flamenco

Seville school of flamenco

Seville school of flamenco

Seville school of flamenco

Spanish guitar interlude at the Seville flamenco school

We then had a late dinner and enjoyed a much cooler weather on the way back to the hotel.

A day in Seville

Tags

Alcazar, Andalusia, Columbus, Europe, Seville, Spain

We spent a hot day in Seville exploring the streets, visiting the Alcazar, and enjoying a carriage ride.

It promised to be a hot day and it delivered with temperatures over 90f/30c. But we stayed cool, drank a lot of water, and whenever possible stayed in the shade.

Since it was Sunday the cathedral was offering mass all day and not suitable fit sightseeing. Therefore, we started with the Alcazar.

Sherrie and the kids in a Seville plaza on the way to the Alcazar

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas in a Seville plaza walking to the Alcazar

Building in Seville

The Alcazar was nice but we thought the decoration and architecture were better at the Alhambra. However, the historic events which occurred in the space are amazing.

During the height of Spanish power the Alcazar was the royal palace and where Amerigo Vespucci created the first atlas, Columbus planned his voyage and prayed in the chapel before leaving, and where the new world riches and exploration were administered. It is a significant location in world history.

Sherrie, Isabella, and Aurelia walking into the Alcazar

Isabella and Lucas in the chapel where Columbus prayed and planned in front of the famous painting marking the first European images of native Americans as well as the best portrait of Columbus

Sherrie and kids in the Alcazar hunting courtyard

Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella in the Alcazar hunting courtyard

Dolls' patio in the Alcazar

Alcazar ambassador room

Alcazar doorway

Alcazar courtyard

Isabella and Lucas resting in the Alcazar

Leaving the Alcazar after a few hours we were on the hunt for some fans. However, a hard sell by a horse coach convinced us – albeit with a little bartering. It was a great 45 minute ride through the best sights in Seville, a great thing on a hot day.

Isabella on the coach

Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia in the coach

Sergio, Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia in the coach after the ride

Lucas, Aurelia, and Isabella looking at the horses

Aurelia examining the horses and coaches

After the coach ride we went on the hunt for fans. All the kids got a fan and Lucas fit a new hat.

The kids with their fans and Lucas with his new hat

Aurelia on the way to ice cream

We them had ice cream followed by pizza for dinner. The best order of things in my opinion 🙂

Aurelia, Lucas, and Aurelia enjoying ice cream in Seville

During dinner Lucas kept saying “hola” to everyone who passed by hoping for a reaction. Isabella, meanwhile, was keeping watch down the sidewalk and announcing “more customers” to Lucas when people were approaching. It was funny and almost everyone was smiling and laughing.

It was a nice day full of adventure. Seville is filled with friendly people and an interesting amalgamation of architecture spanning a 1000 years and multiple cultures.

Seville cathedral belltower, a converted minaret

La Playa en Marbella

Tags

Andalusia, beach, Europe, Marbella, Seville, Spain

Today we left Granada and headed to Seville with an afternoon stop at the beach at Marbella. Of course, the chance to spend an afternoon swimming in the Mediterranean was too good to pass up.

The kids woke up nice and early this morning giving us a good start to the day. Have I mentioned that it’s been over a year since we’ve used an alarm clock 🙂

It took a little over 90 minutes to reach Marbella which took us through some beautiful countryside.

Thousands of olive groves

Sergio driving to Marbella

Olive groves and mountains

Once at Marbella we found the first accessible beach with parking and nearby restaurants for lunch. As we didn’t bring a beach towel to save space we paid an exorbitant price for one, not knowing they were included in chair rentals – oh well.

We also had lunch at a beach side restaurant that charged 1.90 euros per piece of bread – I did my best to argue with their highway robbery in Spanish but failed. In case anyone I’d wondering what that looks like, it is Sergio gesturing wildly with much eye rolling followed by uttering loudly of broken high school Spanish phrases. In their defence the swordfish was very good.

Sherrie and Isabella at lunch

We then hired a couple of beach chairs and ordered some drinks – more highway robbery occurred at the bar. The chairs, at 30 euros for two, were worth it.

The kids and even the adults then spent the next four hours playing in the surf, swimming, building sand castles, and relaxing. Sherrie even saw a ray!

Sherrie, Lucas, and Isabella relaxing

Aurelia playing in the sand

Sherrie relaxing

Lucas and Bella playing in the surf

The beach

Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia (behind Lucas) building a sand castle

Aurelia and Isabella playing in the surf

Lucas and Aurelia playing in the surf

Lucas getting sand from the ocean for the sand castle

The kids playing with an elephant statue on the way to the car

We then drove the two hours to Seville where we promptly got lost searching for the hotel and ordered room service which included the best burger Sergio has had in over a year.

Tomorrow, Seville!

Cathedral, Royals and Sacramonte in Granada

Tags

cathedral, Europe, Granada, Sacramonte, Spain

After a late night last night everyone slept in a little.  After brioche, juice, and coffee we tried the cathedral again with much more success. However, coming upon the corpus Christi procession yesterday was by no means a bad thing.

Sherrie and I both enjoyed the cathedral.  It had a unique layout with no transept making the large space more inviting.

Lucas and Isabella in the Granada cathedral

Granada cathedral side chapel with small painting given to queen Isabella from the pope

We then went next door to the capilla real, the royal chapel.  No pictures or video were allowed although I’m sure Sherrie snuck a few in.

In the chapel are several tombs of Spanish nobility, most notably those of Isabella and Ferdinand. Something different about this tomb is the ability to visit the crypt and view the actual coffins. While the above marble effigies are ornate and beautiful, the coffins are plain and made of lead.

The space adjoining the chapel is a sacristy containing some of their belongings such as her missal and crown along with many works of art.

For eight euros, for two adults, it was a short visit. Comparatively,we paid 28 euros for two adults and spent 4 hours at the Alhambra – and would have paid more.

We then began to trek towards the Sacramonte, a series of caves tuned homes which were, until recently, the traditional home of Granada gypsys. It is also the home of flamenco.

To get to Sacramonte we walked along the river and enjoyed another part of Granada. In a small plaza directly beneath the Alhambra and along the river we got lunch.

Along the river in Granada

Sherrie and the kids along the river in Granada

Plaza beneath the Alhambra where we ate lunch

Alhambra view from plaza

Sherrie and Isabella at lunch

Sacramonte

Flamenco bar in Sacramonte

Sherrie and Isabella walking in the Sacramonte district

The day was getting warm and we had already walked awhile so we decided to go back to the apartment to rest before going back out.

Lucas colouring his Alhambra designs

Isabella, Aurelia, and Sherrie resting writing in their travel journals and playing iPad games

We headed back out at 1800 to see a couple of more historic buildings. However, we got lost and even asking for directions never found the places but instead enjoyed a different part of Granada and stumbled onto a nice couple of plazas.

Lucas and Isabella enjoying the mist from a fountain

We enjoyed it so much we stayed for dinner – or maybe it was just the chorros and hot chocolate 🙂

Chorros y chocolate

Aurelia enjoying her chorros and chocolate

For not having spoken Spanish in over a decade and not many spaniards speaking any English we are getting along fine – except for the hot milk I ordered with desert!

So far Sherrie and I rate this as one of the best holidays ever.

Granada and the Alhambra

Tags

Alcazaba, Alhambra, Andalusia, Generalife, Granada, San Nicolas, Spain

We awoke at 0900 well rested. We obviously needed the rest. A pan of scrambled eggs and chocolate brioche with pineapple grape juice satisfied everyone. Of course coffee was involved.

Morning coffee

We set out, after applying sunscreen at 1030 ready to hit the cathedral. But our plan was stymied by a religious procession celebrating Granada’s most holy day, corpus Christi.

It was a great experience and we stayed for an hour watching the various nearby villages parade past. Everyone around us explained what was occurring and we were trying very hard to understand in our poor Spanish. But, we understood, somehow – plus they loved the kids.

Sherrie and the kids walking to the cathedral through the old Islamic district

Procession of corpus Christi in Granada

Since the city centre was going to be uncomfortably busy we made alternate plans, picked up our Alhambra tickets and headed up the hill to Mirador San Nicolas.

Sherrie, Isabella, and Aurelia picking up Alhambra tickets

Isabella and Lucas running through the streets

Isabella and Lucas inspecting an old city water source

It is a terrace located nearby the gypsy quarter, the Sacromante, which contains a small plaza and a 16th century church. It is also one of the nicest views in the city and hosts musicians and artists all day.

We hiked up to the top of the church steeple and enjoyed the view, music, and atmosphere.

Sherrie and the kids in the San Nicholas bell tower

View from San Nicolas bell tower

View from San Nicolas bell tower

View from San Nicholas bell tower

Plaza San Nicholas

Sherrie and the kids at plaza San Nicolas with the Alhambra in the background

Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella at plaza San Nicholas with the Alhambra in the background

We then ate lunch in a restaurant near the plaza.

Isabella and Lucas with paella tapas

Isabella with eggplant and honey - so good!

Tuna in white wine with onions and almonds

Aurelia feeding the birds

From mirador San Nicholas we took a taxi to the Alhambra. As we had heard that the walk up was rough we decided to take it easy. Seven euros and ten minutes later we were at the Alhambra. Our tickets for the Nazrid palace was not until 1900 which have us four hours to explore. Boy, did we need it.

First we saw the Generalife. A more unofficial palace.

Lucas and Isabella at the Generalife gardens

Sherrie and Aurelia at the Generalife gardens

Lucas and Isabella in the Generalife gardens

A lizard in the Generalife gardens

Sherrie, Lucas, Aurelia, and Isabella in the Generalife palace

Decorative entryway in the Generalife palace

Generalife palace

Generalife palace room

Generalife palace

Lucas and Isabella in the Generalife palace

Lucas taking Isabella's picture in the Generalife palace

The weather was beautiful. Not hot in the sun nor cold in the shade. Perfect. After the Generalife we went to the palace of Carlos V. Not much to see there.

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas in the palace of Carlos V

We then crossed over to the Alcazaba, the military barracks for the sultan.

Isabella and Lucas at the doorway to the Alcazaba

Alcazaba tower

Sherrie and the kids on the top of the Alcazaba

Sherrie and Lucas walking the old road below the Alcazaba

Lucas attempting to scale the walls. Again we had to intervene to keep Lucas from going to prison 🙂

After the Alcazaba we waited in line for the Nazrid palace, the main attraction. The kids did a great job waiting and making new friends. A particular Korean couple really loved Isabella and loved spending time with her.

Lucas, Aurelia, Isabella, and another kid making friends and waiting in line for the Nazrid palaces

Isabella with the Korean couple and Lucas, who felt left out, on the shoulders of another guy who felt bad for him

We then, finally, got into the Nazrid palace. Having tickets for the end of the day was nice as it was almost empty of people.

It was stunning.

Nazrid palace geometric wall design

Nazrid palace geometric wall design

Nazrid palace interior room

Nazrid palace ceiling

Nazrid palace geometric wall design

Nazrid palace geometric wall design

Nazrid palace windows

Nazrid palace water jug shelf

Nazrid palace courtyard

Nazrid palace seven lions fountain

After the palace we took a taxi to plaza nueva for dinner and finished it off with some ice cream. Not a bad day. Everyone was in a great mood. And best of all, no sunburns!

Sergio and the kids at dinner on the plaza nuevo

Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia enjoying ice cream after dinner

Hello Spain!

Tags

food, Granada, Spain, tapas

It felt like a crime to wake the kids up at 0400 this morning.

Aurelia still sleeping at 0400

Lucas and Isabella still sleeping

We got ourselves together and after a short taxi from the hotel we caught the Gatwick express from Victoria station. Luckily, the hotel provided breakfast boxes.

On the train to Gatwick airport

After the rigors of navigating the airport we were on the plane and on our way to the next adventure.

Lucas and Aurelia strapped in and ready to fly!

Aurelia catching up on her beauty rest during the flight

Once at the airport we waited an hour to get the rental car and another hour installing car seats. Not a great start.

While a trip to the beach before Granada sounded nice the kids were tired and took a nap during the two hour drive from Malaga to Granada. In the end well rested kids equal happy kids and a better trip.

The trip to Granada was beautiful. We headed away from the beach inland towards the snow capped Sierra Nevada mountains. The road was lined with olive groves and, of course, the sun was out. In some ways the architecture and landscape reminded me of central California.

The Alhambra and Sierra Nevada mountains

When we arrived in Granada it took some time to find the meeting spot to get the keys for our holiday let. It took even longer to find a parking garage. I’m sure I broke some traffic laws along the way.

We then trekked thorough the old Islamic district to the apartment.

Street in old Islamic district of Granada

Isabella and Lucas in the apartment courtyard

The view of the Alhambra from our apartment

Once we got settled we headed out for tapas. We still needed to move the car to the correct parking spot and hit a tapas bar on the way.

Fries with eight sauces, seafood salad, and croquettes

Enjoying tapas!

Jamon Iberico Plata with some of the best Spanish meats

We finally moved the rental car and walked our luggage through the labyrinthine streets of the old Islamic district, the sounds of our wheeled luggage on the cobblestones echoing in the narrow passages.

The Granada old Islamic district from above