Metz, Lorraine Valley, and Strasbourg

Tags

cathedral, France, lorraine, metz, petite france, strasbourg

This morning we began again with fresh baked goods Sherrie picked up at the patisserie – danishes, pain au chocolate, and brioche.  We headed to Metz to explore the Lorraine region and more of central France.

The Lorraine is nearby the Alsace and is filled with rolling hills and farms growing sunflowers, corn, hops, and cabbage.  It was raining at first during our drive but cleared up when we arrived at Metz.

We parked at the cathedral and first tried to enter the covered market, but found the door frustratingly hidden – or it was closed.  Either way, we found a restaurant on the cathedral square which looked appetizing.  Sergio had the plat du jour (chicken fillet and pasta with mushroom sauce), Sherrie had pasta carbonara, and the kids shared gnocchi with tomato sauce and a ham and mushroom pizza.

Lucas and Isabella sitting down for lunch at Metz

The plat du jour of chicken and pasta with mushrooms

The cathedral was a classic example of gothic architecture.  It was heavily damaged during World War II and some of the scars are still visible in new stonework, artillery damage (conspicuously left un-repaired), and beautiful stained glass by contemporary artists – such as Marc Chegall.

War damage on the cathedral

Metz cathedral

We then headed down to the river and Metz’s many bridges to explore the city.  It was beautiful in a unique way and the river and bridges added much to it’s allure.  As with many of these cities which have seen the ravages of war, the mix of 20th century buildings nearby medieval structures reminds us always of the devastation these places and people saw.

Metz

Metz and the river

Temple Nuef in Metz

Metz

Metz

Metz with river buildings and cathedral

After a nice walk through the city we headed to Strasbourg for dinner as it was on the way back to Colmar.  Strasbourg is well known for “petite France” which is an area of the old city which still maintains its medieval character and many of the original buildings.  We parked a bit further than intended but it was a blessing as we were able to walk and enjoy more of the city and the water front.

Walking the waterfront in Strasbourg

We found a nice Alsacian restaurant and had a great dinner by the river.  Sergio had some wonderful duck with mushrooms and scalloped potatoes, Sherrie had Salade Strasbourgeoise (cheese, lettuces, and sausge), while the children shared a plate of ham and potatoes.  We finished the meal with ice cream and some great creme brulee.

Dinner in Strasbourg

Aurelia eating her ice cream in Strasbourg

The walk back to the car was great as we got to experience a little of Strasbourg at night with the medieval buildings lit up and everyone out to dinner.  It was a nice day exploring some of central France and some more of Alsace!

Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia playing on the bridge lights in Strasbourg

Old town bridge in Strasbourg

Strasbourg at night

Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia playing in Colmar on our return

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Seville Cathedral, Bullring, and Flamenco!

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Andalusia, bullring, cathedral, Christopher Colombus, flamenco, Giralda, Seville, Spain

This morning started off warm and got warmer in Seville.  We went straight to the cathedral after missing it yesterday. 

However, on our way we stopped to buy a fan for Sherrie.

Fans laid out from which too choose

Sherrie and the kids at the fan shop

The best part of the cathedral was walking up the minaret – now bell tower – the Giralda tower.  The walk up over a thousand feet was easier because the interior is a ramp rather than steps to facilitate a horse and rider.

Sherrie and the kids going up the tower

Seville from the Giralda tower

Sergio, Lucas, and Aurelia at the top of the Giralda tower

Sherrie and the kids at the top of the Giralda tower

Isabella in the Giralda tower

The second best part if the cathedral was the grave of Christopher Colombus.

Isabella and Lucas at the grave of Christopher Colombus in the Seville cathedral

Grave of Christopher Colombus in the Seville cathedral

Cathedral rooftop and original mosque plaza below

Isabella and Lucas never miss a chance to play in the water

Lucas and Isabella in the mosque plaza in front of the original entrance

The original mosque entrance at the Seville cathedral

Giralda tower

We then had tapas for lunch which included bacon wrapped shrimp, which were wonderful.  After that we stopped in a nearby Starbucks, of which they are many, for frappuccino and cookies.

Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia enjoying cookies in Starbucks

We then decided to go to the bullring since that would be cool and take a scenic route along the river and post the golden tower.

Sherrie and the kids at the golden tower. Aurelia is asleep on Sherrie's back.

Golden tower protecting the river and port of Seville

The bullring and museum were fascination and rate as one of our favourite activities – although I don’t feel I’ve read enough Hemingway to appreciate it.

The whole family at the Seville bullring

Lucas and Isabella at the bullring

The Seville bullring

Inside the bull fighting museum

The bull fighters chapel

The bull fighters alter

After leaving the bullring we were approached by someone selling flamenco tickets. Since it was on our list we decided to do it, but the show started in one hour so we had to get to the show and stopped for a slice of pizza.

The flamenco show was at the school of flamenco I’m the Barrio Santa Cruz, the historic Jewish district. This also gave us a chance to see one of the more beautiful neighbourhoods in Seville.

Buildings in Seville barrio Santa Cruz

Street in Seville barrio Santa Cruz

We also walked through the El Arenal district.

Seville El Arenal street

The flamenco show was very nice and luckily for the kids, and our sanity, only lasted one hour.  But, it was awesome with great dancing, guitar, and singing.

Seville school of flamenco

Seville school of flamenco

Seville school of flamenco

Seville school of flamenco

Spanish guitar interlude at the Seville flamenco school

We then had a late dinner and enjoyed a much cooler weather on the way back to the hotel.

Cathedral, Royals and Sacramonte in Granada

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cathedral, Europe, Granada, Sacramonte, Spain

After a late night last night everyone slept in a little.  After brioche, juice, and coffee we tried the cathedral again with much more success. However, coming upon the corpus Christi procession yesterday was by no means a bad thing.

Sherrie and I both enjoyed the cathedral.  It had a unique layout with no transept making the large space more inviting.

Lucas and Isabella in the Granada cathedral

Granada cathedral side chapel with small painting given to queen Isabella from the pope

We then went next door to the capilla real, the royal chapel.  No pictures or video were allowed although I’m sure Sherrie snuck a few in.

In the chapel are several tombs of Spanish nobility, most notably those of Isabella and Ferdinand. Something different about this tomb is the ability to visit the crypt and view the actual coffins. While the above marble effigies are ornate and beautiful, the coffins are plain and made of lead.

The space adjoining the chapel is a sacristy containing some of their belongings such as her missal and crown along with many works of art.

For eight euros, for two adults, it was a short visit. Comparatively,we paid 28 euros for two adults and spent 4 hours at the Alhambra – and would have paid more.

We then began to trek towards the Sacramonte, a series of caves tuned homes which were, until recently, the traditional home of Granada gypsys. It is also the home of flamenco.

To get to Sacramonte we walked along the river and enjoyed another part of Granada. In a small plaza directly beneath the Alhambra and along the river we got lunch.

Along the river in Granada

Sherrie and the kids along the river in Granada

Plaza beneath the Alhambra where we ate lunch

Alhambra view from plaza

Sherrie and Isabella at lunch

Sacramonte

Flamenco bar in Sacramonte

Sherrie and Isabella walking in the Sacramonte district

The day was getting warm and we had already walked awhile so we decided to go back to the apartment to rest before going back out.

Lucas colouring his Alhambra designs

Isabella, Aurelia, and Sherrie resting writing in their travel journals and playing iPad games

We headed back out at 1800 to see a couple of more historic buildings. However, we got lost and even asking for directions never found the places but instead enjoyed a different part of Granada and stumbled onto a nice couple of plazas.

Lucas and Isabella enjoying the mist from a fountain

We enjoyed it so much we stayed for dinner – or maybe it was just the chorros and hot chocolate 🙂

Chorros y chocolate

Aurelia enjoying her chorros and chocolate

For not having spoken Spanish in over a decade and not many spaniards speaking any English we are getting along fine – except for the hot milk I ordered with desert!

So far Sherrie and I rate this as one of the best holidays ever.

Celebrating My Birthday in the UK

Tags

abbey, beer, birthday, bourton-on-the-water, cathedral, cotswolds, edward II, gloucester, history, king, pub, robert curthose, tomb

Today I celebrated my birthday with my family.  My first birthday living overseas in the UK.

I slept in until 0830 when I heard Isabella come up the stairs to check if I was still sleeping.  I went downstairs at 0845 greeted by the family with a warm Happy Birthday! before Isabella told me I was not supposed to be awake yet.  Sherrie sent me back upstairs with the kids while she finished breakfast.

Sherrie made a wonderful plate of back-bacon, scrambled eggs (Gordon Ramsay style), and toast with orange juice.  One of my favorite breakfasts.

Aurelia then took a nap and we headed out to do some sightseeing nearby.

Gloucester Cathedral

I really wanted to visit Gloucester Cathedral.  There has been an abbey on the site since 678 and the current cathedral was began in 1089 and completed (in its current state) in 1450.

I especially wanted to visit the tomb of Robert ‘Curthose’ (nicknamed short-legs by his father, of whom they were not on speaking terms, as a term of derision). He was the eldest son of William the Conqueror but denied the throne twice by his younger brothers.  He spent 26 years in exile and was buried in Gloucester Cathedral.

The tomb was awesome.  Painted marble and the body sculpted in such a unique position – right arm crossing the body, left hand holding a sword at his side and his legs bent and crossed.  Because of his time spent in exile, he likely spoke French (his first language) and Welsh (due to so many years spent imprisoned in Cardiff).

Also buried in the Cathedral is Edward II – the likely reason the Cathedral was not destroyed in the dissolution by Henry VIII.  His tomb is unassuming but obviously royal in custom and design.

Another amazing sight in the cathedral is the ceiling above the choir and alter.  The brilliant stone masons carved amazing ribs and arches which flow from each other in an organic and delicate way belying their stone origin.

Dick Wittington’s Pub

After the Cathedral we headed out to find some lunch.  The rain began heavily however and we had to take cover in the KFC entryway until the worst of it abated and we continued on.  We finally decided on Dick Wittington’s – a pub with a 1800s facade but a 1600s interior.  Very charming.  The food was normal pub quality.  I had Chicken Roquefort (stuffed with cheddar and fig).  The kids shared a chicken sandwich and chips and Sherrie had the ham, eggs, and chips.  I had a pint of the Butcombe Bitter with lunch which was fairly nice – smooth with caramel but a bit light on the body.

We left Gloucester and headed into the Cotswolds.  We drove for Bourton-on-the-Water but I mistakenly set the SatNav and we were back in Cheltenham instead.  20 minutes later we were finally in Bourton-on-the-Water and spent 45 minutes walking the picturesque town.  Since it was already 5:30 in the evening most places were closed or closing.  But the kids fed the ducks and Sherrie poked into some shops.

We returned home to a dinner of French Toast and birthday cake and ice cream!  A great day.