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Passports and Poppets

Category Archives: Europe

Verdun WWI Battlefield

01 Sunday Sep 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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Tags

Alsace, battlefield, douaumont, France, the great war, verdun, world war, wwi

During our drive to Colmar 5 days earlier, we noticed the motorway signs to Verdun – one of the most important WWI battles and it got us thinking about researching what was at the battlefield and if it would be worth a visit on the way back.

A short internet search later proved that the French preserved the battlefield very well and it was a highly rated “attraction” because of the level of preservation and signed interpretation available to visitors. In fact, it is one of the best preserved battlefields we’ve ever encountered – and we’ve seen a lot.

Because of our very long drive to get back to home in the UK, we only had a couple of hours to spend – so we first stopped at the visitor’s center to get a map and suggestions to ensure we used our time wisely.

BACKGROUND: The Battle of Verdun is significant in world history as a French defeat would have meant the loss of France to the Germans and likely no hope for an Allied victory in Europe. Hence why the French victory is held in such high esteem. It is also important because it marks one of the most deadly battles in the history of the world – in fact, it is an understatement to call it a battle – it was a war within a war. Estimates range from 700,000+ to 900,000+ killed in 11 months of battle averaging at least 70,000 killed per month in a space of only 7 square miles. Compare that to Gettysburg where only about 50,000 were killed (but, that was during 3 days). Sadly, most of the soldiers never actually saw an enemy. They were killed by artillery or poison gas while living in their fox holes and trenches.

Knowing the history and gravity of what occurred makes a visit very solemn and emotional knowing that a man died on almost every inch of earth that you walk. We first visited the Douaumont Ossuary and primary French cemetery. The Ossuary contains the remains of 130,000 soldiers collected from across the battlefield – they are not organized but rather kept in separate alcoves/rooms as the bodies were identified. Also, as new remains are found every year they too are placed in the Ossuary. It marks the heart of the battlefield.

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Douaumont Ossuary containing the remains of 130,000+ soldiers and the French cemetery containing over 16,000 graves.

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Douaumont Ossuary contains the remains of over 130,000 soldiers who died at the Battle of Verdun

We stopped briefly at the museum and memorial to the Battle of Verdun.  However, we only stopped to see the artillery and other items on display outside as we didn’t have enough time.  However, the reviews of the museum were highly positive.

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Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia outside the Memorial of Verdun and alongside an American military cart used during the Battle to maintain the roads

Driving through the battlefield, you can’t help but notice the honeycomb network of small hills and valleys marking the entire land – the remains of the trenches in which so many died. At first, they are interesting and intriguing to see – WWI trenching being something you only really read about in a history book. But, after awhile seeing them continuously, the sight really begins to impress the scope and magnitude of the event.

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Verdun WWI Trenches ~100 years later

Next, we visited the Trench of Bayonets memorial. A spectacularly moving memorial preserving the place where 39 bayonets were found projecting from the ground.  The bayonets marked the trench below in which the 137th French regiment was buried alive during German bombardment The ground has been left untouched and the soldiers left as they were. A monument was built above them and a small cross marks their location.

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Trench of Bayonets – the crosses mark the location of the bodies along the trench which has been buried and lies beneath the memorial

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An unknown French soldier buried within the Trench of Bayonets

 

We then visited Fort Douaumont. An amazing fortification built on a small hill and largely abandoned by the French who determined it could not be defended against artillery. However, the fort was easily taken by the Germans early in the battle and the French expended tremendous effort retaking the position later.

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Fort Douaumont exterior

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Network of machine gun emplacements on Fort Douaumont

 

Inside the Fort, you can walk through the halls and really experience the claustrophobic and horrible conditions that were present across the battlefield – and the men in the Fort actually had it good comparatively. The fort is filled with hallways and rooms most of which have fragments of the artillery shells which were found in the room after a bombardment along with plaques describing the number of people killed in that location.

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Aurelia, Lucas, and Isabella examine the remains of poison gas and incendiary shells which fell on the fort.

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WWI bunk beds within the sleeping quarters

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Networks of telegraph wire traverse the fort providing information about the battle into the command center

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The steel works of the 155mm 360 degree rotating machine gun which could be raised and lowered into the fort for added protection as well.

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Latrines

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Isabella and Lucas following the audio and visual tour within the Fort

On the lower level is a memorial and grave of 679 German soldiers which died in a firestorm within the Fort. Their bodies were collected after the fire and placed within a wall which was then sealed.

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The memorial to the 679 German soldiers who perished in a firestorm within the fort and lay in a crypt behind the stone wall

Lastly, on our way out of Fort Douaumont, we visited some better preserved trenches nearby which still retained much of their walls as well as the concrete poles which held the communications lines and barbed wire. It was quite an experience to walk the trenches and think about the hell which was life for these men during those 11 months.

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Verdun trenches

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Verdun trenches

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Verdun trenches

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Lucas and Isabella exploring the trenches

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Isabella and Lucas within another Verdun trench

 

 Visiting the battlefield was emotional. Even writing about the experience and what I saw is now difficult. We tried to explain it to the children the best that we could – but there is no explanation except that we hope that by preserving these sites, and visiting them, we can always remember the pain it caused and hopefully never repeat it again.

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Swiss Alps: Interlaken and Grindelwald

31 Saturday Aug 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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alps, cheese, chocolate, eiger, foudue, grindelwald, interlaken, switzerland

We’ve watched the weather forecasts all week hoping to find an acceptable day to visit the Swiss Alps just 90 minutes away.  The last three days have been thunderstorms and today was supposed to be cloudy but dry.  So, we headed to Interlaken with some fresh pastries for breakfast.
 

Breakfast in France

Breakfast in France

 

We arrived in Interlaken just after noon and having bought the required vignette (road tax/vehicle registration) for 40 francs (~1 dollar = 1.09 francs) at the border.

 

Sherrie had researched a good restaurant for fondue in the town and it did not disappoint.  We enjoyed both cheese and chocolate fondue.  The kids shared weinerschnitzel and fries.  While the weather was nice when we arrived giving us some beautiful views of the lake on our drive into town, it began raining hard when our food arrived. But the rain didn’t make our fondue lunch any less delicious.
 

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Sherrie enjoying cheese fondue in Interlaken, Switzerland


 

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Isabella, Aurelia, Sherrie, and Lucas enjoy chocolate fondue at Interlaken, Switzerland


 

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Lucas enjoys his chocolate fondue


 

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Aurelia enjoys her chocolate fondue


 

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Isabella and Aurelia enjoy their chocolate fondue on banana dippers


 

After lunch the rain lessened a bit and gave us a chance to walk through the town a bit and back to our car.  On our way through Interlaken, we had to stop for some Swiss chocolate!
 

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Swiss chocolate from Interlaken


 

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Swiss truffles from Interlaken – the flimsy plastic will not protect you from my stomach!


 

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Walking through Interlaken with the Alps in the background


 

We moved on hoping the weather would break further into the Alps and we may even go above the weather as we continued.  So, we headed to Grindelwald, probably the best place to see the Alps and where most of the cable cars go up onto the peaks as well as find nice hikes.
 

The drive was very nice as we headed up into the peaks and over rushing rivers and through pastures situated on the sides of these amazing crags.  It was very beautiful.
 

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The valley around Interlaken, beautiful pastures and fields surrounded by tall peaks


 

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Houses on the hillsides alongside high cliffs driving from Interlaken to Grindelwald


 

Unfortunately, the weather only got worse when we arrived at Grindelwald.  However, the clouds cleared for about 15 minutes to see the peaks show through.  But, the webcams showed that the there was zero visibility at the top – not worth the $200 trip on the cable car. However, the short view of the peaks and the surrounding beauty of the valleys and countryside were worth it.
 

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The Eiger peeking out of the clouds at Grindelwald


 

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The view of the valley below Grindelwald


 

We decided to head back but possibly take a different route to see different scenery.  However, the weather and traffic was bad delaying us forcing us to head back on the fastest route instead of the most scenic.  On our way back the weather got even worse and there were several flashes of sideways lightning.
 

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An amazing granite cliff face along the road from Grindelwald


 

We stopped at a rest stop with a restaurant for dinner – not our optimal choice, but available.  The food was decent but, as everything in Switzerland, very expensive.  The Burger King Whopper meal was listed for 14.90 francs!  More than $15!
 

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Receipt for dinner at the rest stop ~ $58. Everything is more expensive in Switzerland


 

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$15 for a whopper meal at a Swiss rest stop


 

When we arrived back in Colmar there was a small presentation of traditional Alsacian dance and music.  We stayed for about 10 minutes (it was very late) and enjoyed the show.
 

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Traditional Alsacian dancers and music in Colmar

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Metz, Lorraine Valley, and Strasbourg

27 Tuesday Aug 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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cathedral, France, lorraine, metz, petite france, strasbourg

This morning we began again with fresh baked goods Sherrie picked up at the patisserie – danishes, pain au chocolate, and brioche.  We headed to Metz to explore the Lorraine region and more of central France.

The Lorraine is nearby the Alsace and is filled with rolling hills and farms growing sunflowers, corn, hops, and cabbage.  It was raining at first during our drive but cleared up when we arrived at Metz.

We parked at the cathedral and first tried to enter the covered market, but found the door frustratingly hidden – or it was closed.  Either way, we found a restaurant on the cathedral square which looked appetizing.  Sergio had the plat du jour (chicken fillet and pasta with mushroom sauce), Sherrie had pasta carbonara, and the kids shared gnocchi with tomato sauce and a ham and mushroom pizza.

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Lucas and Isabella sitting down for lunch at Metz

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The plat du jour of chicken and pasta with mushrooms

The cathedral was a classic example of gothic architecture.  It was heavily damaged during World War II and some of the scars are still visible in new stonework, artillery damage (conspicuously left un-repaired), and beautiful stained glass by contemporary artists – such as Marc Chegall.

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War damage on the cathedral

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Metz cathedral

We then headed down to the river and Metz’s many bridges to explore the city.  It was beautiful in a unique way and the river and bridges added much to it’s allure.  As with many of these cities which have seen the ravages of war, the mix of 20th century buildings nearby medieval structures reminds us always of the devastation these places and people saw.

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Metz

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Metz and the river

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Temple Nuef in Metz

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Metz

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Metz

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Metz with river buildings and cathedral

After a nice walk through the city we headed to Strasbourg for dinner as it was on the way back to Colmar.  Strasbourg is well known for “petite France” which is an area of the old city which still maintains its medieval character and many of the original buildings.  We parked a bit further than intended but it was a blessing as we were able to walk and enjoy more of the city and the water front.

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Walking the waterfront in Strasbourg

We found a nice Alsacian restaurant and had a great dinner by the river.  Sergio had some wonderful duck with mushrooms and scalloped potatoes, Sherrie had Salade Strasbourgeoise (cheese, lettuces, and sausge), while the children shared a plate of ham and potatoes.  We finished the meal with ice cream and some great creme brulee.

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Dinner in Strasbourg

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Aurelia eating her ice cream in Strasbourg

The walk back to the car was great as we got to experience a little of Strasbourg at night with the medieval buildings lit up and everyone out to dinner.  It was a nice day exploring some of central France and some more of Alsace!

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Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia playing on the bridge lights in Strasbourg

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Old town bridge in Strasbourg

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Strasbourg at night

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Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia playing in Colmar on our return

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German Black Forest

25 Sunday Aug 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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black forest, cuckoo clock, Germany, nubach, triberg, waterfall

This morning we felt normal again after the long drive and some rough nights.  We got ready and headed over to the nearby patisserie for breakfast.  We picked up brioche, pain au chocolate, danishes, and croissants and ate them in the car.

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Patisserie in Colmar

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Isabella and Lucas at the patisserie

As is our normal travel plan, we establish a general area to explore and something to do and see where it takes us. Today we decided to explore the famous Black Forest region of Germany and buy a cuckoo clock – something we’ve wanted since we visited Germany the first time.

Some internet searching led us to Triberg as the best place and the name of a couple of stores with a good reputation and prices. We wanted to buy something that we liked and would last, not just a souvenir.

Alsace and Colmar are right on the border with the Black Forest and took 90 minute drive to Triberg. We drove through some amazing scenery: distinctive houses, small towns, rivers, lush pastures, and of course, thick and dark forest.

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Stream in the black forest

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Isabella, Aurelia, and Lucas near a stream in the black forest

As the home of the Brothers Grimm, Gummi Bears, and almost all modern folklore, it didn’t disappoint. It was easy to picture Heidi, Sleeping Beauty, Hansel and Gretel, and other stories in this quiet place.

We stopped at the recommended “House of 1000 Clocks.” They really did have a lot. The kids behaved very well as we choose a wood cutting scene with a house. http://hausder1000uhren.de/about.php?lang=en

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Our new cuckoo clock

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Sherrie, Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia with our new clock

Rebecca, from Kansas, helped us and recommended a great restaurant in nearby Nubach.

We had a traditional German lunch with weiss beir, jeger schnitzel, spatzel, potato pancakes with applesauce, currywurst, and chocolate cake.

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Weissbier


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Jeger schnitzel

Afterwards we went into Triberg to see Germany’s highest waterfall and hike in the Black Forest. The waterfall and nature hike were wonderful. The red squirrels are famous, and you bring peanuts to feed them, but we only saw two squirrels running quickly up the hills.

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Isabella and Lucas at the waterfall

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Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia in a tree during our black forest nature walk

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The town of Triberg from the waterfall area

We then walked through the town to window shop but there was nothing of interest. However, we did visit a wood carver’s shop, Oli’s Schnitztube, where a carver was building a clock and they had amazing and unique clocks. If we hadn’t had already purchased earlier, this would have been the place. If you’re interested in a cuckoo clock, our woodwork in the black forest, go here. http://www.olisschnitzstube.de

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Cuckoo clocks at Oli's

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Lucas in Triberg

We then headed back to Colmar and picked up some good pizza at the Italian restaurant next door.

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Eating in the hotel room

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Colmar and the Rue du Vin

24 Saturday Aug 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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Alsace, canal, Colmar, food, France, grapes, market, Rue du Vin, vineyard

After a late arrival last night we woke up at 0900. Actually Lucas, in his role as family alarm clock, woke everyone up with a, “everyone get up, it’s sunny!”

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Good morning Colmar

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Aurelia, Isabella, and Lucas watch the town awake from the hotel window

After adding some money to the parking meter we had a nice breakfast in the hotel courtyard.

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Isabella and Lucas enjoy breakfast in the hotel courtyard

We then ventured out to explore Colmar. It was raining, but we made the best of exploring this picturesque Alsacian town. It had several markets, a canal system, a cathedral, and is filled with renaissance buildings.

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Exploring Colmar

We explored the markets filled with wonderful foods like cheeses, meats, fruits, and pretzels!

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Covered market

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Covered market

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Pretzels in the covered market

We also walked the canals and through the winding streets of the old town. On the way we had to stop and sampled fresh macaroons: pistachio, raspberry, chocolate, orange, rum raisin, and original.

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Colmar buildings

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Street in Colmar looking towards the cathedral

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Macaroon place. She is embarrassed I photographed he snacking on them. I would too!

Our last stop was the old town hall and cathedral before going to lunch at for traditional Alsacian fare.

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At lunch


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Lunch menu

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Alsacian pizza with ham, onion, cheese and creme freche

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Sergio's lunch of baked potato, ham, and mushrooms in a hollandaise

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Our hotel

We went back to the hotel to dry off and decided to explore the surrounding wine region by travelling the Rue du Vin. This amazing road traverses the vineyards and through the small wine making towns which really show the character of the area.

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Alsace wine region: vineyard and hill towns

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Alsacian grapes

After returning, we had a nice dinner of meats, melon, roast chicken, and scampi.

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Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia heading back from dinner

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Onto Alsace!

24 Saturday Aug 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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Alsace, Colmar, Eurotunnel, Folkstone, France

We left for Colmar, France in the Alsace region this morning.  Another trip to France was our family present to Sherrie for her birthday.

It was an early start but we still got out late. Fortunately, there was a fault with the trains and the Eurotunnel was running late.  Our 11:06 departure ended up being 14:50.

However, the delay gave us an excuse to get out to get lunch and the kids played on the playground. A good way to break up a 10 hour drive and enjoy one of the few 80F degree days in the

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Eating lunch at the Eurotunnel station

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Isabella playing at the Eurotunnel playground

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Lucas playing at the Eurotunnel playground


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Aurelia at the Eurotunnel playground

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Waiting for the Eurotunnel train

It was basically a marathon driving session lasting over 15 hours with various stops to rest, stretch, and of course, coffee.

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Coffee


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Isabella, Lucas, and sleeping Aurelia at a gas stop

We did pass through Champagne and watched the hillside villages with acres of vineyards roll by.

We arrived at Colmar at midnight and was greeted by a familiar sight! As it happens, the designer of the Statue of Liberty was born in Colmar and this replica, exact in it’s dimensions but smaller in scale, was a gift to Colmar from the United States.

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Our beautiful hotel room

Travel time: 15 hours 30 minutes
Gas cost: 195 euros
Tolls: 49 euros
Miles: 643

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A day away from Seville: Beautiful Ronda

05 Wednesday Jun 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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Andalusia, Church of Santa Maria de la Encarnacion, La Casa del Rey Moro, Palacio de Mondragon, pueblo blanco, puente nuevo, Ronda, Spain, white hill town

We decided to use our last day in Spain to adventure away from Seville and see the most famous of the Spanish white hill towns, Ronda.

There were a few more sights in Seville but Sherrie and I always prefer the character and charm of small towns.   Several friends and family recommended the town and we were not disappointed.

We didn’t plan this visit and as such relied on a single map of the old town in a guide-book. We just set the town into the sat nav and we were off!

After an hour and a half drive we arrived and found a great (and inexpensive car park) in the center of the newer town. The town is separated into two, the historic town center and the newer district, by the famous Puente Nuevo (new bridge) built in the 18th century (yup, really new…).

Puente Nuevo, “New Bridge,” in Ronda looking towards the historic side

After spending some time marveling at the bridge and the gorge it crosses, we walked over to the historic town center.  Funny thing, we met an Australian couple on the bridge we had previously met in Seville – and who were heading to Granada afterwards.  Quite funny to see the same couple in a few different places around Spain.

The historic town is not very large but we only had four hours and so we followed a walking tour recommended in our DK Eyewitness book to make sure we covered all the sights.  It was a nice tour.

Our first stop was La Casa del Rey Moro (“The house of the Moorish king” – although it was never the house of a king) where there exists an old water mine which travels down the gorge to the river.  It was an important feature which allowed access to water during the frequent sieges by either Christian or Moorish troops.  It is 365 steps down….and 365 steps back up 🙂

The trip was worth it.  The ravine was cool, the river was beautiful, and we watched the swallows flying through the canyon to their nests.

Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella traveling down the water mine at La Casa del Rey Moro

Inside the water mine of La Casa del Rey Moro

Lucas at the river in Ronda at the bottom of the water mine beneath La Casa del Rey Moro

The river in Ronda at the bottom of the water mine beneath La Casa del Rey Moro

Isabella resting in the canyon at the river in Ronda. Surprisingly, she was not posing for the camera.

Sherrie, Aurelia, Lucas, and Isabella at the river in Ronda beneath La Casa del Rey Moro

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas at the entrance about to go back up the water mine beneath La Casa del Moro in Ronda

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas resting in the garden after coming back up the 365 steps of the water mine from the river beneath La Casa del Moro in Ronda

Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas pose in the gardens of La Casa del Rey Moro in Ronda

After our stop at the water mine we continued our walking tour which led us past an old minaret and some very picturesque parts of Ronda.

Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella walking through Ronda

Isabella, Aurelia, Lucas, and Sherrie walking through Ronda

Buildings in Ronda – traditionally whitewashed

After walking through the town we found a nice plaza with a lot of tree cover in front of the Church of Santa Maria de la Encarnacion.

Church of Santa Maria de la Encarnacion, La Mayor

We stopped in the plaza for a rest and then continued to the Palacio de Mondragon which is not too far.  On our way we got in trouble with a lady for trying to pick an orange from a tree 🙂  The oranges grown in the cities of Spain are beautiful but not  very good but are rather used to make British marmalade.  However, we still wanted to try one.  Oh well.

We then visited the Palacio de Mondragon and the municipal museum that it encloses.  The museum was very well done and told the entire history of Ronda including the prehistory of the area through the Roman occupation and Moorish settlement.  We enjoyed the museum.  It is also located in a beautiful building.

Exterior of the Palacio de Mondragon in Ronda

Inner courtyard of the Palacio de Mondragon

After the museum we went back to the plaza for dinner and enjoyed a really nice time.  The kids also got to run around a bit and play with some other children who were just out of school.  During our meal a gentleman with a horse rode up to the restaurant for a drink and gave Lucas and Isabella a ride around the plaza.  We had a very nice time drinking beer, eating tapas, and attempting to communicate with the others around us 🙂

Isabella, Aurelia, Lucas, and Isabella sitting down for dinner in Ronda

Lucas, Aurelia, and Isabella make friends and play in the plaza – although neither groups spoke the other’s language they had a great time

Tomatoes and shrimp tapas

Chorizo and bruschetta with cheese and honey tapas

Lucas riding around the plaza in Ronda

Isabella riding around a plaza in Ronda

We had a great day in Ronda and wish we had a bit more time there, but maybe we’ll be back someday!

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Seville Cathedral, Bullring, and Flamenco!

03 Monday Jun 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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Andalusia, bullring, cathedral, Christopher Colombus, flamenco, Giralda, Seville, Spain

This morning started off warm and got warmer in Seville.  We went straight to the cathedral after missing it yesterday. 

However, on our way we stopped to buy a fan for Sherrie.

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Fans laid out from which too choose

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Sherrie and the kids at the fan shop

The best part of the cathedral was walking up the minaret – now bell tower – the Giralda tower.  The walk up over a thousand feet was easier because the interior is a ramp rather than steps to facilitate a horse and rider.

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Sherrie and the kids going up the tower

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Seville from the Giralda tower

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Sergio, Lucas, and Aurelia at the top of the Giralda tower

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Sherrie and the kids at the top of the Giralda tower

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Isabella in the Giralda tower

The second best part if the cathedral was the grave of Christopher Colombus.

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Isabella and Lucas at the grave of Christopher Colombus in the Seville cathedral

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Grave of Christopher Colombus in the Seville cathedral

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Cathedral rooftop and original mosque plaza below

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Isabella and Lucas never miss a chance to play in the water

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Lucas and Isabella in the mosque plaza in front of the original entrance

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The original mosque entrance at the Seville cathedral

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Giralda tower

We then had tapas for lunch which included bacon wrapped shrimp, which were wonderful.  After that we stopped in a nearby Starbucks, of which they are many, for frappuccino and cookies.

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Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia enjoying cookies in Starbucks

We then decided to go to the bullring since that would be cool and take a scenic route along the river and post the golden tower.

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Sherrie and the kids at the golden tower. Aurelia is asleep on Sherrie's back.

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Golden tower protecting the river and port of Seville

The bullring and museum were fascination and rate as one of our favourite activities – although I don’t feel I’ve read enough Hemingway to appreciate it.

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The whole family at the Seville bullring

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Lucas and Isabella at the bullring

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The Seville bullring

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Inside the bull fighting museum

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The bull fighters chapel

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The bull fighters alter

After leaving the bullring we were approached by someone selling flamenco tickets. Since it was on our list we decided to do it, but the show started in one hour so we had to get to the show and stopped for a slice of pizza.

The flamenco show was at the school of flamenco I’m the Barrio Santa Cruz, the historic Jewish district. This also gave us a chance to see one of the more beautiful neighbourhoods in Seville.

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Buildings in Seville barrio Santa Cruz

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Street in Seville barrio Santa Cruz

We also walked through the El Arenal district.

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Seville El Arenal street

The flamenco show was very nice and luckily for the kids, and our sanity, only lasted one hour.  But, it was awesome with great dancing, guitar, and singing.

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Seville school of flamenco

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Seville school of flamenco

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Seville school of flamenco

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Seville school of flamenco

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Spanish guitar interlude at the Seville flamenco school

We then had a late dinner and enjoyed a much cooler weather on the way back to the hotel.

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A day in Seville

02 Sunday Jun 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Alcazar, Andalusia, Columbus, Europe, Seville, Spain

We spent a hot day in Seville exploring the streets, visiting the Alcazar, and enjoying a carriage ride.

It promised to be a hot day and it delivered with temperatures over 90f/30c. But we stayed cool, drank a lot of water, and whenever possible stayed in the shade.

Since it was Sunday the cathedral was offering mass all day and not suitable fit sightseeing. Therefore, we started with the Alcazar.

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Sherrie and the kids in a Seville plaza on the way to the Alcazar

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Sergio, Isabella, and Lucas in a Seville plaza walking to the Alcazar

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Building in Seville

The Alcazar was nice but we thought the decoration and architecture were better at the Alhambra. However, the historic events which occurred in the space are amazing.

During the height of Spanish power the Alcazar was the royal palace and where Amerigo Vespucci created the first atlas, Columbus planned his voyage and prayed in the chapel before leaving, and where the new world riches and exploration were administered. It is a significant location in world history.

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Sherrie, Isabella, and Aurelia walking into the Alcazar

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Isabella and Lucas in the chapel where Columbus prayed and planned in front of the famous painting marking the first European images of native Americans as well as the best portrait of Columbus

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Sherrie and kids in the Alcazar hunting courtyard

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Sergio, Lucas, and Isabella in the Alcazar hunting courtyard

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Dolls' patio in the Alcazar

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Alcazar ambassador room

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Alcazar doorway

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Alcazar courtyard

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Isabella and Lucas resting in the Alcazar

Leaving the Alcazar after a few hours we were on the hunt for some fans. However, a hard sell by a horse coach convinced us – albeit with a little bartering. It was a great 45 minute ride through the best sights in Seville, a great thing on a hot day.

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Isabella on the coach

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Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia in the coach

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Sergio, Isabella, Lucas, and Aurelia in the coach after the ride

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Lucas, Aurelia, and Isabella looking at the horses

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Aurelia examining the horses and coaches

After the coach ride we went on the hunt for fans. All the kids got a fan and Lucas fit a new hat.

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The kids with their fans and Lucas with his new hat

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Aurelia on the way to ice cream

We them had ice cream followed by pizza for dinner. The best order of things in my opinion 🙂

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Aurelia, Lucas, and Aurelia enjoying ice cream in Seville

During dinner Lucas kept saying “hola” to everyone who passed by hoping for a reaction. Isabella, meanwhile, was keeping watch down the sidewalk and announcing “more customers” to Lucas when people were approaching. It was funny and almost everyone was smiling and laughing.

It was a nice day full of adventure. Seville is filled with friendly people and an interesting amalgamation of architecture spanning a 1000 years and multiple cultures.

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Seville cathedral belltower, a converted minaret

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La Playa en Marbella

01 Saturday Jun 2013

Posted by Sergio Caltagirone in Europe, Travel

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Tags

Andalusia, beach, Europe, Marbella, Seville, Spain

Today we left Granada and headed to Seville with an afternoon stop at the beach at Marbella. Of course, the chance to spend an afternoon swimming in the Mediterranean was too good to pass up.

The kids woke up nice and early this morning giving us a good start to the day. Have I mentioned that it’s been over a year since we’ve used an alarm clock 🙂

It took a little over 90 minutes to reach Marbella which took us through some beautiful countryside.

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Thousands of olive groves

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Sergio driving to Marbella

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Olive groves and mountains

Once at Marbella we found the first accessible beach with parking and nearby restaurants for lunch. As we didn’t bring a beach towel to save space we paid an exorbitant price for one, not knowing they were included in chair rentals – oh well.

We also had lunch at a beach side restaurant that charged 1.90 euros per piece of bread – I did my best to argue with their highway robbery in Spanish but failed. In case anyone I’d wondering what that looks like, it is Sergio gesturing wildly with much eye rolling followed by uttering loudly of broken high school Spanish phrases. In their defence the swordfish was very good.

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Sherrie and Isabella at lunch

We then hired a couple of beach chairs and ordered some drinks – more highway robbery occurred at the bar. The chairs, at 30 euros for two, were worth it.

The kids and even the adults then spent the next four hours playing in the surf, swimming, building sand castles, and relaxing. Sherrie even saw a ray!

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Sherrie, Lucas, and Isabella relaxing


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Aurelia playing in the sand


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Sherrie relaxing

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Lucas and Bella playing in the surf


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The beach

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Lucas, Isabella, and Aurelia (behind Lucas) building a sand castle

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Aurelia and Isabella playing in the surf

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Lucas and Aurelia playing in the surf

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Lucas getting sand from the ocean for the sand castle


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The kids playing with an elephant statue on the way to the car

We then drove the two hours to Seville where we promptly got lost searching for the hotel and ordered room service which included the best burger Sergio has had in over a year.

Tomorrow, Seville!

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